Collection: Staircase Chandeliers

A common sizing rule is to add the stairwell (or foyer) length + width in feet and use that total as the chandelier diameter in inches (e.g., 10' × 12' area → ~22" diameter). Designers also use this approach in entries and foyers.

Keep at least 7 ft of clearance from the bottom of the fixture to the stair treads/landing; this preserves walk-under space. In practice, many pros also size the drop using ~2.5–3 inches of fixture height per foot of ceiling height.

U.S. residential building code requires a minimum 6 ft 8 in (80 in) of headroom measured from the tread nosings; aim higher for comfort and to avoid visual crowding.

The Illuminating Engineering Society (IES) targets about 5 foot-candles average on stairs; multiply stair area (sq ft) by 5 to estimate total lumens needed across all fixtures (chandelier + any sconces/recessed). Example: 60 sq ft × 5 fc ≈ 300 lumens at the stair plane, which typically means a multi-source plan since chandeliers throw light decoratively.

For tall spaces, a simple guide is fixture height ≈ 2.5–3 inches per foot of ceiling height (e.g., 20-ft ceiling → ~50–60" tall fixture). Don’t hang below the second-floor line so the piece reads from both levels without intruding into the upper walkway.

Many are dimmable, but compatibility depends on the LED driver inside the fixture and the dimmer type (e.g., TRIAC/leading-edge vs ELV/trailing-edge or 0–10V). Always match a dimmable fixture to a compatible dimmer per the manufacturer’s list to avoid flicker.

National guides place typical installs roughly in the $350–$1,250 range, with high-ceiling or stairwell work trending higher due to lifts, assembly, and extra labor (often $700–$2,000+ for complex/tall jobs). Local electrician rates and fixture weight drive the final number.

Yes—use a sloped-ceiling adapter or a swivel/ball-joint canopy. For multi-pendant designs, stagger the cable lengths so the lowest point still keeps safe headroom. Always anchor to structure (joist/blocking) and verify the box and mounting hardware are rated for the fixture’s full weight.

Most homes look balanced at 2700K–3000K (warm white). If you want a slightly cooler, crisp look, 3500K is a good middle ground. Aim for CRI 90+ so steps and finishes read accurately. If available, dim-to-warm LED keeps a cozy tone at lower brightness.

Turn power off at the breaker. Dust regularly with an extendable duster; deep-clean yearly using microfiber cloths and a mild, non-ammonia solution (avoid harsh chemicals on plated finishes). For tall spaces (≈18–20 ft+), a chandelier lift or professional service makes cleaning, bulb/driver changes, and height adjustments safer and faster.